Vinous – Antonio Galloni – 92-94/100
The 2023 Fonbadet is quite powerful in this vintage. Black fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and incense show the darker side of the château and the appellation. The 2023 is a bit brooding, but all the elements are nicely balanced.

Vinous – Antonio Galloni – 92-94/100
The 2023 Lynch-Moussas is super-expressive right out of the gate. The lifted, expansive bouquet is enticing. Red-toned fruit, blood orange, cedar, new leather and sweet pipe tobacco build over time, adding layers of complexity and overall dimension. This stylish, mid-weight Pauillac is a delight.

Vinous – Neil Martin – 91-93/100
The 2023 d’Armailhac was picked from September 7 to 30 and aged in 50% new oak. It contains the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon to date. Its tightly wound bouquet demands encouragement from the glass, perhaps just missing the panache that elevated the previous vintage. You could argue that this seems more “serious.” The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and a firm backbone. It’s a little pepperier than previous vintages, closing with a streamlined finish. Give this two or three years in bottle.

Vinous – Antonio Galloni – 88-90/100
The 2023 Lacoste-Borie is a soft, supple second wine to drink on release, while its fruity, open-knit personality is on display. Succulent red cherry, spice and rose petal are nicely pushed forward. Lovely aromatics from the Franc linger.

Vinous – Neil Martin – 93-95/100
The 2023 Grand Puy Lacoste was picked September 11 to 28 at 48hL/ha and matured in 75% new oak. It has a classic “GPL” bouquet with blackberry, pencil box and light marine scents, obviously not as powerful as the previous vintage, yet in typical style, beautifully defined and focused. Just a touch of cracked black pepper surfaces with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle but insistent grip, just a light bitter edge lending tension and nerve. I perceive good depth here, but this is not a powerhouse of a Pauillac (is GPL ever?). It fans out toward the finish whilst maintaining control. There’s an impressive linearity to this wine, and thus I suspect it will require less bottle-age compared to recent vintages.

Vinous – Antonio Galloni – 93-96/100
The 2023 Haut-Batailley is another impressive wine from this Chateau. There’s plenty of the typical dark fruit and overall breadth that is such a signature, but the tannins show greater finesse than in some prior years—a very positive evolution that continues here. Black cherry, plum, lavender, cloves, leather and licorice are all beautifully amplified. The 2023 marks another major step forward for Haut-Batailley.

Vinous – Neil Martin – 91-93/100
The 2023 Haut Batailley was picked from 14 September and matured in 65% new oak. It has a harmonious and focused bouquet with blackberry, graphite and iris flower scents. The oak here is neatly integrated. It’s actually stylistically not dissimilar to the Mouton Rothschild! The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins—quite rounded in the mouth, but there is backbone here. A subtle white pepper note mixes with pencil shavings on the classically styled finish, completing this refined Pauillac.

Vinous – Neil Martin – 93-95/100
The 2023 Duhart-Milon was picked September 7 to October 3 and contains 15% pressed wine, matured in 50% new oak. It has a much more backward bouquet than the Moulin, displaying well-defined yet tightly coiled graphite-infused black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins that belie the backbone of this Pauillac. That graphite element is accentuated in the mouth and controls the classic finish that could only come from this appellation. This is excellent, but patience is required.

Vinous – Antonio Galloni – 91-93/100
The 2023 Croizet-Bages is very easy to like. Lifted aromatics are immediately welcoming. Crushed red-toned fruit, spice and rose petal add tons of charm. Croizet-Bages is not the most complex Pauillac, but its balance is spot on. There is no shortage of charm here.

Vinous – Antonio Galloni – 92-94/100
The 2023 Réserve de la Comtesse is fabulous. This is the first vintage in
which Cabernet Sauvignon drives the blend, the result of extensive
replanting over the years and vines that are now old enough to be
used here. Among other things, that means the Réserve is more closely
aligned with the Grand Vin in style, starting in the vineyard. Potent and
explosive, the 2023 offers up a heady mélange of dark fruit, leather,
spice, grilled herbs and lavender. It’s a stellar wine in every way. Tasted
three times.

Vinous – Neil Martin – 90-92/100
The 2023 Réserve de la Comtesse has a lovely bouquet, discrete
initially, then opening with cassis and light violet fruit. It never shouts
too loudly at this early stage. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp
tannins on the entry. There’s also a stronger graphite element than I
have noticed in recent vintages, due to the higher percentage of
Cabernet Sauvignon (60%). This is a classically styled Réserve.

James Suckling – 98-99/100
Wow. This is really excellent, with superb finesse and focus. It has tight density that is almost diamond-like in its brilliance. Medium to full body, with a quality of tannin that is incredibly seamless. Like silk in texture. A top Pichon Lalande. From organic and biodynamically grown grapes. 80% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot and 3% cabernet franc. May be better than 2022.

Vinous – Antonio Galloni – 95-98/100
The 2023 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande marries elegance, power and sophistication. Soft, ripe tannins wrap around a core of inky dark fruit, licorice, spice, pencil shavings, lavender and menthol. Bright acids pull it all together on the finish. In 2023, Pichon Comtesse blends Merlot picked early for freshness and Cabernets picked later for tannin ripeness and flavor complexity. Readers will have to be patient, but the 2023 holds considerable promise for those who can wait. This is another stellar effort from the team led by General Manager Nicolas Glumineau. 

Vinous – Neil Martin – 96-98/100
The 2023 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was picked from September 6 until 29, with some rain on September 20 in the middle of Cabernet picking. But, Nicolas Glumineau remarked that the vineyard/fruit was in good condition; one day of rain did not affect the quality. The 2023 has a quintessential Comtesse bouquet, displaying pure and expressive black fruit laced with violet and graphite, delivered with impressive delineation. The palate is very refined on the entry. This is armed with beguiling symmetry—poised yet intense on the finish. It doesn’t exert huge grip because it knows it doesn’t need to, and it fans out gloriously. Outstanding.

Vinous – Neil Martin – 90-92/100
The 2023 Echo de Lynch-Bages is a potent second wine. It’s really the Cabernets that drive the wine’s flavor profile and overall feel. The Echo is not as juicy or succulent as it can be, rather it is a wine that will need a year or two post-release to show at its best.

Vinous – Antonio Galloni – 94-97/100
The 2023 Lynch-Bages is a dark, brooding wine. In so many vintages, Lynch-Bages is a wine of sensuality, but in 2023, it is quite the powerhouse. Formidable tannins wrap around a core of black fruit, spice, menthol, licorice and gravel. This is a somber, introspective Lynch-Bages with a ton of Cabernet Sauvignon character. I can’t wait to taste this from bottle.

Vinous – Neil Martin – 93-95/100
The 2023 Lynch-Bages takes some time to really settle, so I gave it 5-10 minutes in the glass. On the nose, glossy black fruit mixes with touches of cassis, graphite, violets and blood orange, perhaps demonstrating more horsepower than I anticipated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannins. There is a lovely symmetry to this Pauillac (not unlike Latour), armed with a cashmere texture and plenty of backbone on the finish, even though I would not describe it as a “grippy” Lynch-Bages. There’s plenty of graphite character on the aftertaste. Excellent.

Vinous – Antonio Galloni – 95-98/100
The 2023 Lafite-Rothschild races out of the glass with notable textural intensity. Explosive and deep, with striking balance, Lafite dazzles in this vintage. The 2023 is a somber, virile Lafite endowed with remarkable depth and tons of sheer character. Plum, blackberry, gravel, pencil shavings, graphite, mocha and lavender build into the intense, palate-staining finish. The blend is 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot.

Vibous – Neil Martin – 95-97/100
The 2023 Lafite-Rothschild was picked September 7 to 29 at 45hL/ha and matured in 90% new oak. This is more discrete on the nose—one of the tropes of this First Growth—even when compared to the more immediate Carruades. This takes time to unfurl in the glass, slowly revealing black fruit laced with pencil box and just a touch of pressed violet. There’s wonderful precision here. The palate is medium-bodied with a cashmere texture, very pure (again) with a judicious dab of cracked black pepper. The finish is very sleek, thanks to its almost filigree tannins, seeming to glide across the palate. It’s not a grippy or sinewy Pauillac, and on reflection, it is technically perfect. Yet, I find myself searching for a bit more…soul. Perhaps a few rough edges would captivate the emotions. This is a delicious Lafite-Rothschild no doubt, but I want it to move me once in bottle. Maybe it will.

Vinous – Antonio Galloni – 92-94/100
The 2023 Carruades de Lafite is a very pretty, sensual wine that very much captures the personality of the Grand Vin, naturally in a more approachable style. The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, with no Franc or Petit Verdot. I have to say, there is something very direct about the 2023—something frank that is really evident. I admire its purity. Succulent red plum, spice, cedar, tobacco and a lifting touch of white pepper open first, while beautifully persistent saline undertones extend the finish.

Vinous – Neil Martin – 91-93/100
The 2023 Carruades de Lafite is notable for some of the Cabernet being picked prior to the Merlot, between September 7 and 29. This year, there is no Cabernet Franc or Petit Verdot in the blend. It has a far superior bouquet to some of the vintages I was tasting a decade or so ago—much more purity and precision, with notes of black plum, wild strawberry and a touch of cassis. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky texture and a crisp line of acidity. It’s fresh, precise and saline, with a long tail on the finish. This is surely one of the best Carruades I have tasted at this stage.

Vinous – Antonio Galloni – 93-95/100
The 2023 Le Petit-Mouton is fabulous. It could easy be a Grand Vin at another address. Rich, ample and beautifully resonant in the glass, the 2023 impresses with its notable palate presence. Dark red cherry, pomegranate, cinnamon, rose petal and new leather are some of the many notes that build. The 2023 is seriously impressive. Wow!

James Suckling – 98-99/100
This is the most structured Mouton since the great 2016, with tannins that start slowly and then take off. It’s muscular and toned. It’s full-bodied but doesn’t come across too heavy. It builds up in intensity and goes on and
on and on. It just keeps expanding. I took a double take here. 93% cabernet sauvignon and 7% merlot.

Vinous – Antonio Galloni – 96-99/100
The 2023 Mouton Rothschild is shaping up to be one of the best wines of the vintage on the Left Bank. Its balance of intense, super-concentrated fruit and equally imposing structure is spellbinding. Dark red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, pencil shavings and dried herbs gain intensity in the glass. I especially admire its vertical build and overall energy. This is an exciting young Mouton endowed with palpable dynamic energy. It’s a superb effort from the team led by Technical Director Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy.

Vinous – Neil Martin – 96-98/100
The 2023 Mouton Rothschild was picked from September 7 to 30 and contains 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, the second highest ever (after the 2010). Matured entirely in new oak as usual, this has an intense, floral bouquet with violet petals infusing the black fruit and touches of licorice loitering just off stage—very fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with extremely refined tannins. Focused and harmonious, it’s velvety smooth with a long and tender finish that has more crispness than the 2022. In fact, I might ultimately end up preferring this over the 2022…it will be interesting finding out in the future!